Enter the panel width and height, tessera size and joint width — the calculator computes the covered area and converts it into material quantity. Add 10–15% on top for cutting waste and breakage.

The module is the size of a single mosaic element, e.g. 10×10 or 20×20 mm. A smaller module means more joints and higher grout consumption, while the main material quantity barely changes.

Yes. Allow 10–15% extra for cutting, breakage and color matching, and up to 20% for complex designs with smooth color transitions.

Epoxy grout doesn't absorb water, doesn't darken and keeps its color, which makes it suitable for pools, kitchen backsplashes and outdoor work. The downsides are higher cost and shorter working time.

From joint geometry: (A+B)/(A×B) × thickness × joint width × grout density, where A and B are the tessera sides. The calculator does this automatically for your dimensions.

Yes. Dose the components by weight in the manufacturer's ratio and mix only as much as you can use within the 30–40 minute pot life.

Usually 1.5–3 mm: a narrow joint emphasizes the design, a wider one forgives small laying irregularities. Outdoor work calls for wider joints.

It depends on module and joint: for 20×20 mm mosaic with a 2 mm joint, roughly 0.5–0.7 kg/m². The calculator gives a precise figure for your dimensions.

For bathrooms — yes, with water-resistant additives. For pools and permanent water contact, epoxy grout is the better choice.

White C2-class cement adhesive or a reactive one: grey adhesive shows through the glass and distorts the colors.

With a 4–6 mm notched trowel — roughly 2–4 kg/m², depending on the substrate and the back relief of the mosaic.

Yes, if the substrate is sound: prime the old tiles with a bonding primer and use a flexible, high-grab adhesive.